For most of my life I've lived a stone's throw (about four miles) from Evanston. So it never really occurred to me to take a weekend getaway to this north suburban hamlet on the lake.

But the recent renovation of the 82-year-old Hotel Orrington and a need to thank my mom for bailing me out a lot lately--well, OK, my whole life--prompted me to plan a mother/daughter getaway in the nearby burb.

Sadly, we scheduled it on one of the snowiest weekends of the year. But the snow was also a blessing because it forced us to concentrate on Evanston's many delights that have nothing to do with cycling or strolling its lakefront.

.

We arrived at the Orrington Friday afternoon, and at least two people greeted us at the door with a big smile and "welcome." As we stomped our snowy feet, we peered into the sleek, swankish Indigo Lounge, with its shiny bar and deeply hued couches, chairs and a chaise longue that glows in the middle.

After a quick check-in, we took the elevator to our room. The ride showed off the new Orrington: a big mirror bordered by a Mexican-style sun on each floor, and quiet hallways decked with contemporary art and red-and-gray checked carpets.

Everything seemed to be going swimmingly until we got to the room.

Despite the attractive contemporary decor and clean newness, we were bummed out by the small bathroom--I could easily touch a hand and foot on opposite walls at the same time, and I am not tall.

The next unpleasant surprise came when we pushed aside the curtains to find a view of the hotel's heating and cooling system. But we settled into our cozy room with its deco leather chair and matching ottoman, a modern desk, two nattily made beds with a white comforter and a thick gray throw blanket.

Even though we had a dinner/wine and cooking class scheduled for later, we're girls with big appetites, so we decided to grab a quick late lunch at a hipster Thai restaurant called Cozy Noodles. A sister restaurant to a popular Wrigleyville joint, this narrow noodle house offered plenty of eye candy with the Thai food. One of the lemon-yellow walls was covered with shelves of vintage lunch boxes, while another featured bobblehead dolls. A life-sized Elvis meets you at the door while funky contemporary Southeast Asian pop music bounces through the air.

This would have been plenty, but the food was killer too. We loved the crispy fried tofu, the moist chicken satay with its a thick peanut sauce and tangy cucumber salad. And the spicy sour beef salad called Nam Tok was wonderfully intense.

On the same block, you'll find Bennison's Bakery, an Evanston staple since the late 1930s. Instead of trying the famed devil's-food cake made with buttermilk (a legacy of its Wisconsin-born founder), my mom tried a terrific oatmeal cookie while I opted for a healthy slice of millet, oats and flax seed cake.

From there we were tempted to dash to the cold car and hibernate in our rooms but were intrigued by a Dream about Tea across the street. We poked around the soothing, quiet shop and were tempted by the various cookies that promise to lift your mood, help you lose weight and settle your stomach. The store also boasts a sunny front room for tea sipping and tea bar in back where friendly staffers help select a brew for what ails you. They are really serious about teas here; a single custom-brewed cup can cost $6.

When we returned to the hotel my mom opted to chill while I checked out the hotel's gym. I could almost hear the 1980s calling as I entered the deserted room stocked with hand weights, a few StairMasters, one elliptical machine and two low-end treadmills. Still, I was able to manage an OK workout.

The original plan was to walk from our hotel to Va Pensiero, where we were scheduled for a 6:30 p.m. cooking class, but it was just too darn cold, so we drove. There, in a big banquet room, my mom and I joined about two dozen mostly North Shore types for a delightful class that featured four wines and owner/executive chef Jeff Muldrow making such dishes as osso bucco, risotto Milanese, chicken in balsamic vinegar sauce and bananas Foster.

As we warmed ourselves with wine and these wonderful hearty foods, we watched sheets of snow whoosh past the windows. The class, which essentially includes a five-course dinner with wines and really great instruction, costs $63 per person with tax and tip included. With the little recipe book each diner receives, I was able to recreate the dishes easily at home.

Before we ventured out into the storm to fetch our car, we decided to check out the old five-story Margarita European Inn where Va Pensiero is housed. A couple who really wants to feel like they've escaped the city (even the continent) would do well to book a dinner or class at Pensiero followed by a stay at this creaky European-style hostel. Off the lobby was the grand lounge full of classic old furniture and a roaring fire, while up a half flight of stairs was a super cozy library that smelled like pipe tobacco.

The elevator is one of those cramped affairs with the gate you pull across the door. Most of the 42 rooms (many with shared Euro-style bathrooms) look charmingly like they were decorated by your grandma. Some of the suites, however, do have large (much larger than at the Orrington), newly remodeled bathrooms and even a canopy bed. Super atmospheric and vintagey, but no gym.

After a good night's sleep at our contemporary hotel, my mom and I headed out for breakfast at another funky Evanston eatery called the Lucky Platter. But not before we found a gift from Evanston's finest on our windshield--a $30 parking ticket. It turns out that in the middle of the savage blizzard, we failed to notice the "No Parking from 3 a.m. to 6 a.m." sign 20 yards away from our car. So take up the hotel on its $18 a night parking service.

Despite the continuing storm, Lucky Platter was open for business and full of young and earthy types. The place is crammed with funky art that ranges from a tin can fish and a scary skeleton to a bad oil painting of John F. Kennedy. My husband and kids met us there and we noshed on hefty whole wheat blueberry pancakes, a luscious goat cheese, sun-dried tomato and avocado omelet and merely adequate Montana hash.

We finished off the short weekend with a visit to two favorite shops of my youth. The Mexican Shop is now closed until late March for restocking, but the rest of the year it features a delightful assortment of unusual girls/women' clothing/accessories store with cool items from all over the world. At 2nd Hand Tunes, I unearthed an Elvis Costello CD that I had lost about the same time I last shopped there in the '80s. It was a mere $6.95. Woohoo.

- - -

Escape plans: Evanston

Hotel Orrington, 1710 Orrington Ave., 888-677-4648: Standard deluxe rooms can run from about $109 (special discount days) to $239 until March 31, when the top rate for those rooms rises to $279. Our room, for example cost $119. www.hotelorrington.com

Margarita European Inn, 1566 Oak Ave., 847-869-2273. These charmingly old rooms run only about $79-$160 for a suite. www.margaritainn.com

Great eats in Evanston: For dinner try Va Pensiero (1566 Oak Ave., 847-475-7779). Future classes include a Friday Night Wine and Food Gathering on April 8. Lucky Platter (514 N. Main St., 847-869-4064) is great for breakfast and lunch, and Cozy Noodle and Rice (1018 Davis St., 847-733-0101) serves up scrumptious Thai food. Dream about Tea (1011 Davis St.; 847-864-7464) brews medicinal tea along with healthy snacks. And Bennison's Bakery (1000 Davis St.; 847-328-9434) is an Evanston landmark with famous devil's food cake.

Try these shopping spots on Dempster Street: 2nd Hand Tunes (800 W. Dempster St.; 847-491-1690) offers great bargains on used music. The Mexican Shop (801 Dempster St.; 847-475-8665) is still one of the coolest places for unique girls and women's clothes we know.

-- Monica Eng

----------

meng@tribune.com